Southeastern Arizona is arguably the most popular birding destination in the United States, and for good reason. Its diverse landscape, a convergence of four major life zones and the “Sky Island” mountain ranges, creates a funnel for species from northern Mexico and a haven for others that thrive here. For a birder on a “Big Year” like us, this area is an absolute must-visit.
Day One: Huachuca Mountains and a Legendary Guide
After landing in Tucson, we drove straight to the San Pedro House, a former cattle ranch on the San Pedro River that is now a birding gem. The trails offered immediate rewards, including year birds like Swainson’s Hawk and Vermillion Flycatcher, along with Lesser Goldfinch, Blue Grosbeak, and Bewick’s Wren. Near the house, we found Black-chinned Hummingbirds, Ladder-backed and Gila Woodpeckers, and a Curve-billed Thrasher.
Next, we visited the historic Brown Canyon Ranch, where a watering hole drew in a fantastic array of birds, including our year birds: Brown-crested Flycatcher, Cassin’s Kingbird, Botteri’s Sparrow, and Pyrrhuloxia.
Our home for the next two nights was the Ramsey Canyon Inn, a comfortable B&B with a famous porch overlooking a flurry of feeders. Here, we were treated to a show of Broad-billed Hummingbirds, a Painted Redstart, an Arizona Woodpecker, and a Black-headed Grosbeak.
Fort Huachuca Specialties
The next morning, we met up with Jeff Babson, one of Arizona’s most respected guides. Jeff’s knowledge is unparalleled, and we had hired him for a full day of birding along the eastern slopes of the Huachuca Mountains. This “Sky Island” range is a crucial habitat where Rocky Mountain and Sierra Madrean bird populations converge.
Our adventure began at Fort Huachuca, an active military base. It felt a little strange walking around with binoculars in an Army outpost, but the birding was incredible. Jeff quickly found us Western Bluebird, Bridled Titmouse, Summer and Hepatic Tanager, and Mexican Jay.
We then hiked the canyon trail, where we found both Dusky-capped and Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers and a nesting pair of Gray Hawk. The find of the day, however, was a nesting pair of Elegant Trogons. We were able to get fantastic scope views of this spectacular and much sought-after bird.
Later, a walk along the cottonwood-lined San Pedro River added a Zone-tailed Hawk, Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Lucy’s Warbler, and Yellow-breasted Chat to our list.
To escape the midday heat, we drove to the Ash Canyon B&B, a perfect place to bird from the comfort of a shaded porch. On the way, we saw a Greater Roadrunner both running and flying down the road—the first time we’ve ever seen one flying! At the feeders, we were treated to Magnificent, Broad-billed, and Anna’s Hummingbirds, as well as Bullock’s and Scott’s Orioles.
Carr and Ramsey Canyons
As the sun began to set, we headed to Carr Canyon, where a sign warned of smuggling and illegal immigration. It was a stark reminder of life on the border, but for us, the focus remained on the birds. This canyon, with its elevation rising from 4,800 to 7,400 feet, is prime habitat for the Red-faced Warbler, one of our target birds. We didn’t find it, but the stunning views of Western Wood-Pewee, Spotted Towhee, and Canyon Wren were more than enough.
The day ended with some night birding at the Ramsey Canyon Preserve. Just a two-minute walk from our inn, we were rewarded with the calls of a Mexican Whip-poor-will, an Elf Owl, and a Whiskered Screech-owl. It was a fantastic day of birding, and we were grateful to Jeff for an unforgettable experience.
Day Two: Hummingbirds, Sparrows, and a Lifer
The next morning, we were up early, missing what we knew was a wonderful breakfast at the Inn, but not the delicious pies. We drove to the vast grasslands of the Las Cienegas National Conservation Area, where we found a bounty of sparrows, including Botteri’s, Lark, and Grasshopper.
Our next stop was the famous Paton Center for Hummingbirds. This is a must-do for any birder visiting Arizona. The backyard is filled with dozens of feeders, attracting four species of hummingbirds, including the beautiful Violet-Crowned. We also saw Abert’s Towhee, a Pyrrhuloxia, and a group of Gambel’s Quail.
Continuing south, we stopped at the Roadside Rest near Patagonia. With help from another friendly couple, we found a pair of Thick-billed Kingbirds. This stop also yielded a Bell’s Vireo, Bushtit, and a lifer for us: a stunning Varied Bunting. Further south, near Rio Rico, we checked out some ponds and saw dozens of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks and Mexican Mallards.
Our final stop was along Lower Mount Hopkins Road, where we successfully found our target Rufous-winged Sparrows. Jeff Babson showed us this location on a previous trip.
It was an incredible three days in Southeastern Arizona, and we are now getting closer to our goal of 500 birds for the year. Now, we’re heading back to Florida on another red-eye flight, exhausted but happy. Almost to 400… must keep going!
Trip Totals: 100 species • 34 year birds • 10 life birds
2015 Totals: 398 year birds • 43 life birds
Next up: Chasing Florida Rarities
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