After an unforgettable time in the cloud forest, we were excited to continue our Costa Rican adventure, heading for the coastal town of Quepos. Our driver picked us up at 11 a.m. for what he said would be a 3.5-hour journey to Hotel Si Como No. He was an excellent guide, sharing local knowledge along the way.
A Stop by Crocodile Bridge
Around 1 p.m., we stopped for lunch at Restaurante Los Cocodrilos, a place known for more than just its food. While waiting for our delicious tapas, we enjoyed great birding, finding a Rufous-naped Wren and a Golden-naped Woodpecker. The restaurant is located near the famous Tarcoles Crocodile Bridge, where we saw countless American crocodiles wallowing in the mud—truly an amazing sight. The bridge area is also a well-known spot for other birds, including Magnificent Frigatebirds soaring overhead.
The rest of our ride took us along the stunning coast, where our driver pointed out the many teak and palm oil farms. As Mike is in the teak business, this was especially interesting for us. Palm oil farms are a controversial topic, but many in Costa Rica were planted on old United Fruit Company banana plantations after a disease in the 1940s and 50s wiped out the bananas. The best bird on the ride was a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, a beautiful and secretive wading bird of the tropics.
A Birder’s Oasis
We finally arrived at Hotel Si Como No Resort and Wildlife Refuge, and it was everything a birder could hope for. Our room had a stunning water view and, even better, a dead snag right outside our window. Not everyone appreciates a dead snag as much as we do, but it was a perfect perch for a Yellow-throated Toucan and a Red-crowned Woodpecker that appeared every morning.
We found ten life birds just by birding the hotel grounds, including the adorable Cherrie’s Tanager, the beautiful Fiery-billed Aracari, and the elusive Bare-crowned Antbird and Gray-cowled Wood-Rail. Every morning, an adorable rodent called an Agouti hung around our room, providing another great wildlife encounter.
Manuel Antonio and Sunset Soaring
On our first night, we walked to El Avion, an old cargo plane that has been converted into a restaurant. The fresh seafood was delicious, and the sunset was spectacular. We were even entertained by a couple of Capuchin Monkeys while we enjoyed the view.
The next morning, we had a scheduled tour of Manuel Antonio National Park. We were fortunate to have Roy Morales as our guide, who knew everything about the park and its animals. During our three-hour walk, we saw 26 bird species, including eight life birds. The best birds of the day were a Lesson’s Motmot, a Chestnut-backed Antbird, and my personal favorite, a Boat-billed Heron.
Beyond the birds, we saw a variety of monkeys and both species of sloth found in Costa Rica: the brown-throated three-toed and Hoffmann’s two-toed sloths. Afterward, we walked across the street to the beach for a swim and found a Great Kiskadee and our lifer Orange-chinned Parakeet.
That evening, we headed to Marina Pez Vela, where we saw a beautiful sunset and were treated to the sight of Magnificent Frigatebirds soaring overhead. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at Gabriella’s, where the Jumbo Sizzling Sea-Scallops were a standout. The next day, we spent some time at the Greentique Wildlife Refuge Butterfly Atrium and were mesmerized by the spectacular Blue Morpho butterfly.
Though we weren’t ready to leave, it was time for our next driver to pick us up and begin the last leg of our Costa Rican adventure on the Osa Peninsula.
Trip Summary:
Trip Birds: 55
Life Birds: 24
Next up: Costa Rica – Osa Peninsula
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