Newfoundland has long been on our list of places to visit. Known for its picturesque, colorful buildings and rugged coast, it’s a destination that requires a bit of effort to reach but rewards you with unparalleled beauty. Our flight from Tampa took us on a scenic journey through Toronto and Halifax before we finally touched down in St. John’s, the island’s vibrant capital. We checked into the historic Murray Premises, an incredible hotel in the heart of downtown, ready to begin our adventure.
The Avalon Peninsula: Gannets and a Lifer Puffin
Early Sunday morning, we met our guide, Alvan Buckley, at Quidi Vidi Lake. We found Alvan through the excellent Birding Pal service, and he was already on his game, scoping birds as we arrived. Together with another couple, we set off down the Avalon Peninsula, captivated by the stunning scenery.
Our first stop was Cape Broyle, where we spotted ten Greater Yellowlegs, two Great Black-backed Gulls, and our first Northern Gannet of the trip. But it was at Renews Bay that we hit the mother lode. The bay and beach were teeming with life: at least 50 Gannets, a hundred Atlantic Puffins (a new lifer for us!), and five Common Terns, along with a variety of other shorebirds, warblers, and sparrows. The scenery just kept getting better. At Portugal Cove, we saw White-winged Scoter, Razorbill, and Black Guillemot, and at Long Beach, we found 27 Whimbrel and a pair of White-rumped Sandpipers. The beach here is covered in millions of smooth, small stones that create a shimmering, musical sound as the surf rolls over them.
The most anticipated destination of the day was Cape Race. The drive-in offered breathtaking views of the coastline, where sheer, hundreds-of-feet-high cliffs plunge into the clear, blue ocean. As we walked around the picturesque lighthouse, birding became almost secondary to the incredible landscape. We saw more Black-legged Kittiwakes, Atlantic Puffins, and Northern Gannets, but our focus was also drawn to the cove below, where seals played in the surf.
The highlight of the stop came when Alvan introduced us to the lighthouse keeper, a truly friendly man who lives on site year-round. He invited us into his home and offered us fresh coffee and delicious homemade cake. The kindness of the people here is amazing; you really have to love this place.
On the way back to St. John’s, we made one last stop at Shott’s Sod Farm, where we were rewarded with a lifer American Golden-Plover in the scope. Heading back up the coast, back at Renew’s Bay, we saw Arctic and Common Terns along with many Yellowlegs and Plovers in the outgoing tidal wash.
That evening, we had a wonderful dinner with Alvan at the Yellowbelly Brewery. He told us about his plans to attend medical school, financed by the Canadian government in exchange for his commitment to serve the local healthcare system. We have no doubt this fine young man is destined for a prosperous and noble life.
A Sunrise, A Boreal Chickadee, and Part Two
The next morning, we woke up early for a special trip to Cape Spear, the easternmost point in North America. Along with a few dozen other early risers, we watched the sunrise over the Atlantic—before anyone else on the continent. As the day brightened, we added Northern Flicker, Black-capped Chickadee, and Savannah Sparrow to our list.
Our drive along Highway 91 took us through a beautiful boreal pine forest, and as we passed through Cataracts Provincial Park, we stopped to admire a stunning waterfall. The habitat looked promising, and after just a few minutes of searching, we found our next lifer: a beautiful Boreal Chickadee, a bird we had tried to find many times in the Adirondacks. A little further on, we came across a pair of Gray Jays and, with a quick treat of peanuts on the ground, we got an up-close look at these charismatic birds.
This was shaping up to be a big day, as we planned to drive across the Avalon Peninsula to the famous Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Preserve, home to one of the largest Northern Gannet breeding colonies in the world.
Stay tuned for Part Two of our trip to Newfoundland!
Trip Summary:
- Total Species: 55
- Year Birds: 12
- Life Birds: 5 (Note: These birds do not count for our Lower 48 big year.)
2015 Summary:
- Year Birds: 402
- Life Birds: 44
- 2015 Bird List
Next up: Puffins, Gannets and Murres – Part Two
Trip : Total Species: Year Birds: Life Birds: (Note: These birds do not count for our Lower 48 big year)
2015 : Year Birds: 402 Life Birds: 44
Here’s the list: 2015 Bird List
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