After an awe-inspiring start to our trip, we shifted our focus toward one of the world’s most successful conservation stories: Tiritiri Matangi. Leaving Dairy Flat on a Thursday morning, we caught a ferry from downtown Auckland. The skyline views were beautiful, but our focus was on the water—with help from fellow birders on the aft deck, we spotted Fluttering Shearwaters and our target seabird, the Australasian Gannet.
Tiritiri Matangi: A Conservation Success Story
Before setting foot on the island, we passed through a strict biosecurity check—a vital practice in New Zealand to protect fragile habitats from invasive species.
It was raining upon arrival, but a quick purchase of a poncho didn’t dampen our spirits. Tiritiri Matangi is a testament to what dedication can achieve. Originally settled by the Māori in the 1400s and later cleared for farming, the island has been transformed since the 1980s through a massive volunteer effort to replant native forests and relocate rare species.
The result is a birder’s dream where the birds are so comfortable you hardly need binoculars. Our guide helped us find the ground-dwelling New Zealand Robin and the boisterous Tui with its striking white chin tufts. We were particularly thrilled to see the Stitchbird, an endemic species with a precarious population of only 2,000. Seeing these birds thrive in a predator-free environment was the highlight of our visit. We learned that an unwelcome rat was recently captured on the island after being discovered by a clever system of PVC tracking tunnels with ink pads.
We also saw the enormous New Zealand Pigeon and a family of Brown Quail. We had our best views of the Sacred Kingfisher here, too.
Yacht Racing and Penguin
After the tour, we had lunch near the Tiritiri Lighthouse, which was first lit in 1865. On the ferry ride back, the sun came out, and I caught a brief glimpse of a Little Blue Penguin, my first-ever penguin sighting! The sun was shining during the ferry ride back to Auckland, and we watched part of the Volvo Race Around the World, a yacht race held every three years.
A Birding Community at Marsden Point
Our final days in the Northland were spent balancing business with birding. While searching for Godwits and the rare Fairy Tern near Marsden Point proved challenging, it introduced me to the wonderful local birding community, who offered quick, helpful advice via social media. We didn’t find our target rarities, but we were rewarded with sightings of South Island and Variable Oystercatchers, a delightful Pied Shag, and a surprise lifer: the African Collared-Dove.
Magical Northland
Our trip concluded with the ultimate hospitality from our friend Jeff Gibbs in Whangarei. After enjoying takeout from Get Ready Roasted, Jeff introduced us to the “starry night” effect of glowworms on our walk to his Tree House guest accommodation—a surreal, unforgettable experience.
On our final morning, we took a walk on the one-mile boardwalk through Jeff’s property, spotting two new life birds: a Tomtit and an Australian Magpie. We also saw a fascinating stick insect. We can’t thank Jeff enough for his hospitality and for sharing his little piece of paradise with us.
Reflecting on the Journey
We tallied 67 species in total, 52 of which were life birds. While we left without spotting the elusive Brown Kiwi, that just gives us the perfect excuse to add New Zealand back to our bucket list. Between the conservation wins, the incredible birding, and the glowworms, this was a trip that will stay with us for a lifetime.
Click here for a complete bird list from our trip to New Zealand. New Zealand Bird List
Trip Summary:
Trip Totals: 39 species • 12 life birds
New Zealand Totals: 67 year birds • 52 life birds
Next up: Ecuador – Quito birding with Rockjumper
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