There is a specific kind of magic that happens when you cross the International Date Line and lose a day. During the 13-hour flight from San Francisco, we were exhausted enough to sleep through in-flight meals and refreshments. Once we landed in New Zealand, the air hit us, and the jet lag vanished. We hadn’t even checked into our accommodations before we were already scanning the horizon, eager to see what this birding paradise had in store.
Our first few days in the North Island were a whirlwind of new habitats, old friends, and an incredible count of 40 “life birds.” From the lush landscapes of Dairy Flat to the coastal wonders of the Miranda Birding Centre, New Zealand immediately proved why it sits at the top of so many birders’ bucket lists.
Dairy Flat and Coastal Wonders
Clay, a friend from Teakdecking, provided the perfect arrival service: a detour to Killarney Park. In just 15 minutes, we hit the ground running with six life birds, including the Eurasian Coot, Black-billed Gull, Red-billed Gull, Kelp Gull, Eurasian Blackbird, and Song Thrush. Although the Black Swans weren’t new to us, they were stunning nonetheless.
After a much-needed nap at a beautiful property in Dairy Flat, I spent the afternoon exploring with my new friend, Inez. Between the llamas, the goats, and the birdlife, the property was a slice of heaven. We added four more life birds to my list: Spotted Dove, Grey Gerygone (also known as the Grey Warbler), New Zealand Fantail, and the adorable Silvereye. Inez’s enthusiasm was contagious, and by the time the rest of the group returned, she had officially announced: “I’m a birder now!”
From Sandbars to Seabirds
The following day, a business trip to Tauranga gave us the perfect excuse to stop at the Miranda Birding Centre. Seeing thousands of Bar-tailed Godwits staging for their epic, non-stop 7,000-mile migration to Alaska makes it the longest undertaken by any bird. With scopes already set up for visitors, we enjoyed stellar looks at the Royal Spoonbill and nine more life birds. The ponds along the road also provided great sightings of Paradise Shelduck, White-faced Heron, Australasian Swamphen, and Pied Stilt.
A Rarity on the Tour
To dive deeper into the local ecology, Inez and I booked a tour with Habitat Tours, and I cannot recommend them highly enough. Our guide, Tristan Cullen, was phenomenal. Exploring Tawharanui Regional Park offered us a variety of habitats and 31 species in a single morning. Our first bird was a spectacularly colored Eastern Rosella in the parking lot trees.
The absolute highlight was encountering the South Island Takahe. With only about 300 of these enormous, flightless rails left in the world, seeing four of them in the wild felt like a miracle. Other birds on the tour included Gray Teal, Brown Teal, Variable Oystercatcher, and the stunning New Zealand Kaka. My favorite photos of the trip, taken by Inez, were of the New Zealand Bellbird and the North Island Saddleback.
Between the rare Takahe, the stunning New Zealand Kaka, and a perfectly timed lunch of meat pies overlooking the beach, it was a day of pure, unfiltered birding bliss.
Tristan later spotted a Buff-banded Rail—a bird rarely seen out in the open—at a waterfall on the Matakana River. Across from the pond, the meadow sheep, taking advantage of the day’s beautiful weather, showcased the amazing greenery. Our final stop was a visit to the 800-year-old McKinney kauri tree at Parry Kauri Park.
Reflecting on the Journey
As we celebrated Inez’s birthday that evening, the sky treated us to a brilliant double rainbow. Those first three days were more than just a successful birding trip; they were a masterclass in the beauty and biodiversity of the Pacific. We had started our New Zealand adventure with high expectations, but the reality far exceeded them.
We were just getting started, though. Stay tuned for “New Zealand Part Two,” where we venture further into the wonders of this incredible country.
Trip Totals: 53 species • 40 life birds
Next up: New Zealand Part Two
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