For every birder visiting Ecuador, there is one bird they desperately want to see: the Andean Cock-of-the-rock. This was our target bird on the third morning of our Rockjumper tour. We arrived at Refugio Paz de las Aves before first light and hiked to the lek site, where a dozen or more males gather to dance and sing for the females. We counted eight active males, a truly spectacular sight. Our tour guide, Dušan Brinkhuizen, captured an amazing digiscoped picture of a male. While enjoying complimentary coffee, we watched a family of Dark-backed Wood Quails enjoying their own complimentary bananas.
The refuge is run by Angel Paz, affectionately known as the “Antpitta Whisperer,” and his family. Angel and his brother Rodrigo fed worms to the antpittas, and we were lucky enough to see four species: Chestnut-crowned, Yellow-breasted, Ochre-breasted, and Giant! I missed the Giant Antpitta, named Maria, as the trail was too treacherous, but I stayed behind and birded with our driver, Nestor, who found a male Crested Quetzal just for me.
The tour also included a delicious brunch of coffee, plantain balls, and empanadas. The feeders on the deck were full of beautiful birds, including Red-headed and Toucan Barbets, and a Crimson-rumped Toucanet. This is a must-stop for any birder visiting Ecuador.
The Secretive Oilbird
After the refuge, we headed to the Chontal area to visit a family farmhouse. After a nice lunch, we birded the yard and surrounding fields, where we saw Pacific Hornero, Black-cheeked and Golden-olive Woodpeckers, and five flycatcher species. The real reason for our visit, however, was a short walk to a ravine to see Oilbirds resting on the cliffs. These unique, nocturnal birds have a three-foot wingspan and are named for their food source: the fruit of the oil palm. This was another once-in-a-lifetime bird found only in South America.
Birding Bootcamp and a Mixed-Flock Party
Back at our hotel, El Septimo Paraiso, we followed our new routine—a quick change, a drink at the lobby bar, and a review of the day’s bird list. The staff provided a delicious dinner each evening, and breakfast was served promptly at 5:30 a.m. Our “Birding Bootcamp” meant there was little time to enjoy the hotel’s beautiful pools.
The next morning, Mike spotted a Broad-billed Motmot on our way to the Amagusa Reserve. The banana and hummingbird feeders have covered viewing areas, which was a good thing since it rained all morning. We found an incredible 17 species of tanagers here, including Moss-backed, Black-chested Mountain, and Glistening-green Tanager. Although most people don’t get excited about doves, we appreciated the White-throated Quail-Dove, which looks like it’s wearing a helmet. The feeders also produced eight new hummingbird species, including the striking Velvet-purple Coronet.
Although most people don’t get excited about doves, we appreciated the White-throated Quail-Dove, which looks like it’s wearing a helmet. The feeders also produced eight new hummingbird species, including the striking Velvet-purple Coronet. There are too many birds to mention, but some of the best are: Golden-collared Honeycreeper, Becards, Tyrannulets, Treehunters, and an Orange-breasted Fruiteater. We also saw the fascinating Lyre-tailed Nightjar near the entrance to the Mashpi Lodge.
The rest of the day was spent birding the Mashpi area, where we had to navigate a rushing stream and a road that was partially washed away by a waterfall. Our leader, Dušan, picked out places to stop, hoping to find a “bird party” (a mixed-flock of birds). He found a Pacific Flatbill and a Hook-billed Kite. While digiscoping a Gray-and-gold Tanager in the distance, a second bird flew into the frame—the perfect end to an incredible day.
After four days of birding, I had added 186 new birds, bringing my life list to 971. Hitting 1,000 looks more promising with each new day!
Trip Birds: 116
Life Birds: 89
Next up: Ecuador, Final Chapter
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