Trip Date: April 2018 | Location: Ecuador
For every birder visiting Ecuador, there is one iconic bird they desperately want to see: the Andean Cock-of-the-rock. On the third morning of our Rockjumper tour, this was our primary mission.
We arrived at the famous Refugio Paz de las Aves before first light and hiked to the lek site. It’s a surreal experience to stand in the quiet of the pre-dawn cloud forest. When the action started, it was spectacular: a dozen or more males gathered to dance and sing for the females. We counted eight active, displaying males—an unforgettable sight. Our guide, Dušan Brinkhuizen, even managed to capture a stunning digiscoped photo of a male in the middle of his display.
While enjoying a much-appreciated cup of coffee, we were treated to a secondary show: a family of Dark-backed Wood Quails enjoying their own “complimentary” breakfast of bananas.
The Antpitta Whisperer
The refuge is run by Angel Paz, affectionately known as the “Antpitta Whisperer,” and his talented family. Watching Angel and his brother, Rodrigo, call the antpittas in with worms was a highlight of the trip. We were lucky enough to see four species: Chestnut-crowned, Yellow-breasted, Ochre-breasted, and the massive Giant Antpitta!
While I had to skip the hike to see the Giant Antpitta (named Maria) because the trail was simply too treacherous, the day still held a surprise for me. I stayed back to bird with our driver, Nestor, who managed to find a male Crested Quetzal—a special sighting just for me.
The tour also included a delicious brunch of coffee, plantain balls, and empanadas. The feeders on the deck were full of beautiful birds, including Red-headed and Toucan Barbets, and a Crimson-rumped Toucanet. This is a must-stop for any birder visiting Ecuador.
The Secretive Oilbird
In the Chontal area, we visited a family farmhouse where we birded the yard and surrounding fields, finding Pacific Hornero, Black-cheeked and Golden-olive Woodpeckers, and five flycatcher species. Next, we took a short walk to a ravine to see Oilbirds resting on the cliffs. These unique, nocturnal birds have a three-foot wingspan and are named for their food source—the fruit of the oil palm. It was a once-in-a-lifetime bird found only in South America.
Birding Bootcamp & The Amagusa Reserve
Back at our hotel, El Septimo Paraiso, we adopted a strict “Birding Bootcamp” routine: quick changes, lobby drinks to review the list, and 5:30 a.m. breakfasts. There was no time to enjoy the hotel’s beautiful pools.
The next morning, we headed to the Mashpi-Amagusa Reserve, where Mike spotted a Broad-billed Motmot on our way in. Despite the rain, we found an incredible 17 species of tanagers, including the Moss-backed, Black-chested Mountain, and Glistening-green Tanager.
.
Although most people don’t get excited about doves, we appreciated the White-throated Quail-Dove, which looks like it’s wearing a helmet. The feeders also produced eight new hummingbird species, including the striking Velvet-purple Coronet. There are too many birds to mention, but some of the best are: Golden-collared Honeycreeper, Becards, Tyrannulets, Treehunters, and an Orange-breasted Fruiteater. We also saw the fascinating Lyre-tailed Nightjar near the entrance to the Mashpi Lodge.
The rest of the day was spent birding the Mashpi area, where we had to navigate a rushing stream and a road that was partially washed away by a waterfall. Our leader, Dušan, picked out places to stop, hoping to find a “bird party” (a mixed flock of birds). He found a Pacific Flatbill and a Hook-billed Kite. While digiscoping a Gray-and-gold Tanager in the distance, a second bird flew into the frame—the perfect end to an incredible day.
After four days of birding, I had added 186 new birds, bringing my life list to 971. Hitting 1,000 looks more promising with each new day!
Trip Summary:
Trip Totals: 116 species • 89 life birds
Next up: Ecuador, Final Chapter – On our way to 1,000 life birds.
You must be logged in to post a comment.