Cruising for Birds: Cozumel & Roatán

Before we became birders, our vacations were about beaches, food, and fun. But once you start birding, every trip becomes an opportunity to see the world differently—through binoculars! When Royal Caribbean rolled out a Black Friday sale, we jumped at the chance to revisit Cozumel and Belize, this time with a birder’s perspective, and add a brand-new destination: Roatán.

As it turned out, Belize didn’t go as planned, but the journey still delivered unforgettable birding moments and a few lifers we’ll never forget.

Cozumel: A Birder’s Return

Our first port of call was Cozumel, and instead of sticking to the usual cruise excursions, we headed to PN Chankanaab—a beautiful park with pristine beaches, tropical gardens, and trails that turned out to be surprisingly birdy. This is a perfect spot for water activities, with options for snorkeling, scuba diving, SNUBA, and even dolphin encounters.

After birding, we enjoyed refreshing tropical drinks and authentic Mexican fare from local vendors. My favorite souvenir from the day? A hand-painted clay cup (Cantarito) customized in my favorite colors—a unique reminder of Cozumel.

The Archaeological area, with its authentic Mayan replicas, was particularly rewarding. We quickly spotted Bananaquit and Yellow-faced Grassquit, and in just two hours added four lifers:

  • Green-breasted Mango
  • Yucatan Woodpecker
  • Northern Tropical Pewee
  • Black Catbird

When Plans Change: Belize Becomes More Cozumel

Belize was supposed to be our second stop, but heavy seas kept the ship from docking. While we were disappointed to miss out on new birding opportunities, we didn’t put our binoculars down. Scanning the horizon from the ship, we spotted four Northern Gannets trailing the wake and even had a Yellow-rumped Warbler onboard—two species we happily counted for Belize!

The alternate plan gave us another full day in Cozumel, so we explored two incredible eBird hotspots:

  • Planetario Cha’an Ka’an de Cozumel – The landscaped grounds were alive with bird activity, and we picked up Ruddy Ground Dove, Caribbean Elaenia, Great Kiskadee, and Yucatan Vireo.
  • Cenote El Aerolito – A nature preserve near one of Cozumel’s 18 cenotes (diving caves), where we added Magnolia Warbler, American Redstart, and Indigo Bunting. (It’s also a crocodile habitat, though we didn’t see any that day!)

For lunch, we treated ourselves to grilled seafood and dorado tacos at The Money Bar Beach Club, a favorite snorkeling spot with stunning views. By the end of our two Cozumel stops, we had logged 34 species, 30 of them lifers in Mexico—a fantastic start to the trip!

Roatán: A New Birding Frontier

Our final destination was Roatán, in the Bay Islands of Honduras—a place we’d never been and were eager to explore. We booked a private tour with Birdwatching Roatan, and our guide, Joel Amaya, exceeded every expectation.

One of our first stops was a quiet road beginning at a Methodist Church, where the birding was magical. Within minutes, we had lifer Canivet’s Emerald, plus Bat Falcon, Yellow-naped Amazon, and Mangrove Vireo.

Next came Mangrove Bright Road, where we added Smooth-billed Ani, Gray Hawk, and a Golden-fronted Woodpecker (Velasquez’s). The warbler activity was incredible—11 species in one stretch! At Sandy Bay Beach, we picked up a Magnificent Frigatebird, a juvenile Yellow-crowned Night Heron, and Blue-gray Tanager.

Roatán also surprised us with some fascinating wildlife:

  • Roatán Spiny-tailed Iguanas – found only on the island
  • Blue Land Crab – a striking local crustacean

Our last stop was Brick Bay Swamp, where we added White-crowned Pigeon and another Yucatan Vireo. By day’s end, Joel had found 39 species for us, including four lifers. If you’re ever in Roatán, we highly recommend this tour!

Birding Tips for Cruisers

Thinking about combining cruising and birding? Here are some tips to make the most of your trip:

  1. Pack Smart:
    • Bring binoculars (8x or 10x) and a lightweight camera.
    • Don’t forget extra memory cards and a portable charger for your phone and camera.
  2. Use eBird:
    • Check eBird hotspots at each port before you go. Many ports have parks or reserves within a short walk or cab ride.
  3. Book Birding Tours Early:
    • Independent local guides often fill up quickly, so secure your spot before sailing.

Cozumel Birds: 34 Life Birds: 4

Roatán Birds: 39 Life Birds: 4

Trip Birds: 61 Life Birds: 8

Next Up: Jamaica & Cayman Islands