Just five days after leaving the Arizona desert, we were back on a Friday night, this time bound for the coastal wonders of California. Our destination was Salinas and the Laurel Inn, a perfect base for a weekend of diverse birding.
Pinnacles National Park & Coastal Charm
Saturday morning started with a short drive to Pinnacles National Park, a stunning landscape of chaparral and towering rock formations. Though the birding was a little slow, we didn’t mind as we enjoyed a cool hike through the canyon. Our main target was the California Condor, a signature species for the park’s recovery program, but it was not to be today. We did, however, get great looks at California Scrub-Jays, Oak Titmouse, Dark-Eyed Junco, and a California Towhee. As we drove out, we were delighted to find a flock of at least 20 Yellow-billed Magpies in a nearby corral.
From there, we took a scenic drive along Carmel Valley Road (G16), a route that transitions from sprawling farms to rolling hills and ranches. We spotted a family of 24 California Quail and a couple of Chestnut-backed Chickadees before arriving in the charming town of Carmel Valley. We wasted no time checking out the wineries, our favorite being Holman Ranch Vineyards. After a delicious lunch at The Corkscrew Café, complete with fantastic Mussels and Fries, we headed to the coast.
The famous seaside town of Carmel was beautiful but crowded. We found a bit of peace at the Carmel River State Beach, where the lagoon held a bonanza of birds: Heermann’s, Western, and California Gulls, and our first lifer of the weekend—30 Elegant Terns! We also saw Brandt’s Cormorants and Brewer’s Blackbirds. Our final stop of the afternoon was Point Pinos with its beautiful lighthouse, where the rocky shoreline gave us close views of Black Oystercatchers and Surfbirds. We had a wonderful meal of fresh jumbo prawns and barbecued oysters at the Sea Harvest Fish Market on Cannery Row before heading back to Salinas.
A Pelagic Adventure with a Legend
Sunday was the main event: a pelagic trip out of Monterey Bay with Shearwater Journeys. The Monterey Canyon brings deep, nutrient-rich waters close to shore, making this one of the world’s premier destinations for seabirds. Our guide, Debi Shearwater, is a character straight out of the movie “The Big Year,” and it was clear she was in charge! Her tough persona, however, is fueled by a deep passion for seabirds and a fierce desire to get her clients on as many birds as possible.
As we left the wharf, dozens of sea lions lounged on the jetty, seemingly unconcerned about the killer whales that are known to patrol the bay. We were also lucky enough to spot a Sea Otter floating on its back in a bed of kelp. Before we even left the harbor, we saw Common Murre, a Red-necked Phalarope, and an Eared Grebe. One of the most unusual sights was a huge Ocean Sunfish—a flat fish that swims on its side—on the surface.
Cruising out into the bay, the action began immediately. We spotted pelagic birds we had only dreamed of seeing, including Black-footed Albatross, and a variety of shearwaters: Sooty, Pink-footed, and Black-vented. Further out, the sightings just kept coming: Ashy Storm-Petrel, Black Storm-Petrel, Rhinoceros Auklet, Sabine’s Gull, and an Arctic Tern that landed on the boat. We got excellent, close-up views of a Tufted Puffin and, as the action picked up, we saw Buller’s Shearwater, Northern Fulmar, and a variety of jaegers: Pomarine, Long-tailed, and Parasitic. The day reached its peak with a sighting of a rare South Polar Skua and four Scripps Murrelets that came within binocular range. This was, by far, the best pelagic trip we have ever been on, and it provided a treasure trove of life birds.
Big Sur & a Final Lifer
With a few hours to spare before our flight, we drove down coastal Highway 1 to Big Sur. This is a drive so scenic that it’s hard to keep your eyes on the road. We made several stops, seeing Black Oystercatchers and a Wandering Tattler on the rocks below. We also admired the graceful Bixby Creek Bridge, a famous landmark where author Jack Kerouac once found inspiration for his novel Big Sur. We raised a toast to Jack before continuing to Andrew Molera State Park.
On the trails along the Big Sur River, we found California Quail, a Warbling Vireo, a Steller’s Jay, and a lifer Pacific Wren. The beach was a spectacle of its own, with hundreds of Brandt’s Cormorants, Heermann’s Gulls, Western Gulls, and Brown Pelicans.
It was a whirlwind weekend, but in just 48 hours, we saw so many great birds. We’re on our way to the San Jose airport now, ready for a red-eye flight and a return to the “real world” with a final count of 457 species toward our goal of 500 in the lower 48.
Trip Summary:
- Total Species: 77
- Year Birds: 34
- Life Birds: 14
2015 Summary:
- Year Birds: 457
- Life Birds: 71
- 2015 Bird List
Next up: Florida Fall Migration
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