On our third day in Newfoundland, we embarked on the drive down Highway 100 from Placentia to Cape St. Mary’s, and it offered some of the most incredible coastal views we’ve ever seen—maybe even better than California’s. As we approached the preserve, we saw three Northern Harriers popping up and down along the cliff edges, and when we arrived, we knew this was a top-ten lifetime destination. The landscape felt like we had been transported to Ireland, with its thick green grass, grazing sheep, and sheer rock cliffs that drop several hundred feet into the ocean. We added Horned Larks and American Pipits on our walk to the nesting site, a mere bonus to the breathtaking scenery.
Standing at the edge of the cliff and looking out over Bird Rock, the sheer number of seabirds was unbelievable. We conservatively counted around 20,000 Northern Gannets, 2,000 Common Murres, and well over 1,000 Black-legged Kittiwakes, all nesting or flying above the rocks. It was a beautiful, clear day at this world-renowned birding and nesting site.
Nightlife, Screech-ins, and Sea Tours
Back in St. John’s that night, we were in the mood to celebrate. We started at the Adelaide Oyster House, where we enjoyed fresh oysters from three Canadian Provinces, and a glass of wine. Then, we headed to Shamrock City Pub for a “Screech-in,” a fun ceremony that makes you an honorary Newfoundlander. After reciting a funny line, we sealed the deal with shots of Screecher Rum and a kiss on the lips of a real codfish. It was a hilarious and unforgettable experience in this fun-loving country. The weather was unusually perfect for August—sunny and in the 70s and 80s—which locals told us was a rare treat.
The next morning was another gorgeous day, and we headed south to Bay Bulls for a boat tour with O’Brien’s Whale and Bird Tour of the Witless Bay Islands Park Reserve. These islands are home to North America’s largest Atlantic Puffin colony and the world’s second-largest Leach’s Storm-Petrel colony. We learned that the puffins build their nests in holes on the steep hillsides, which helps them take off, as they aren’t the most graceful fliers. We estimated there were more than 5,000 Atlantic Puffins, along with thousands of Common Murres, Razorbills, Black Guillemot, Black-backed and Herring Gulls, all presided over by one very well-fed Bald Eagle. We highly recommend this tour for anyone, not only bird lovers.
Back on shore, we drove north to the picturesque Petty Harbour and picked up delicious fried cod for lunch at Chafe’s Landing (circa 1878). We ate our Cod on a cliff overlooking the great North Atlantic Ocean—a perfect moment that captured exactly why we came here. Our day ended at Signal Hill, a national historic site that offers panoramic views of St. John’s and its harbor.
One Last Morning, a Lifer, and Final Memories
On our last full day, we got up early for a final few hours of birding before our flight. Our first stop was Kenny’s Pond, where our guide Alvan had recently seen several Tufted Ducks. We walked a short distance along the trail and were rewarded with clear binocular views of our target birds—a new lifer! Our final stop was Logy Bay, where we hiked the East Coast Trail to the Red Cliff Radar Station. Along the path, we saw Black-capped Chickadees, Dark-eyed Juncos, and a beautiful Red Crossbill perched atop a pine tree. Reluctantly, we headed back to the airport, wishing we had more time.
We met so many wonderful people and made incredible memories on this trip. It was one of our favorite trips, not just for the year, but in our entire lives of travel. We will surely be back to Newfoundland someday to explore more of this immense and scenic island province.
Here’s a link to Part One of our Newfoundland Trip: Newfoundland – Part One
Newfoundland Trip Summary:
- Total Species: 62
- Year Birds: 14
- Life Birds: 7 (Note: These birds do not count for our Lower 48 big year.)
2015 Summary:
- Year Birds: 402
- Life Birds: 44
- 2015 Bird List
Next up: Southeast Arizona – Third Time’s a Charm
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