Refugio Paz de las Aves

Every birder visiting Ecuador has one bird they desperately want to see, the Andean Cock-of-the-rock. This was our target bird on the third morning of our Rockjumper Tour. We arrived at Refugio Paz de las Aves before it was fully light and started our hike to the Cock-of-the-rock lek site. We counted eight active males singing and dancing to attract the attention of females nearby. Our tour guide, Dušan Brinkhuizen, digiscoped this amazing picture of a male Cock-of-the-rock. While we were enjoying complimentary coffee, a family of Dark-backed Wood Quails were enjoying their complimentary banana.

The Refugio Paz de las Aves is run by Angel Paz, known as the ‘Antpitta Whisperer’, and his family. Angel and his brother Rodrigo feed the Antpittas worms and we were lucky to see four species of antpitta: Chestnut-crowned, Yellow-breasted, Ochre-breasted, and Giant! I missed the Giant Antpitta named Maria, as the trail was too treacherous. I stayed behind and birded with our tour driver, Nestor who spotted a male Crested Quetzal for me.

Additionally, our tour included a brunch of delicious coffee, plantain balls and empanadas. The deck feeders had some really beautiful birds including Red-headed and Toucan Barbets, and Crimson-rumped Toucanet. We cannot say enough about the refuge and our hosts and this is a must stop if you visit Ecuador. The six hour tour produced 68 species, including 10 Tanager species! I think everyone in our group  bought a t-shirt or other souvenir to remember this amazing place.

Next, we headed to the Chontal area where we visited a family farmhouse. After a nice lunch we birded the yard and surrounding fields and saw Pacific Hornero, Black-cheeked and Golden-olive Woodpeckers and five flycatcher species. We thought the cows were getting loose but actually it was the daughter herding them through the yard into the next field. All of this was fantastic but the real reason for our visit was to take the short walk to the ravine to see Oilbirds resting on the cliffs. These nocturnal birds have a 3 foot wingspan and are named for their food source, the fruit of the oil palm. Another once in a lifetime bird found only in South America.

Later, back at El Septimo Paraiso we followed our usual routine: Quick change, meet in lobby bar for a drink and review the days bird list. The staff at Septimo provided a delicious dinner each evening and daily breakfast promptly at 5:30 a.m. The birding tour that I was now affectionately referring to as “Birding Bootcamp” meant there was little time to enjoy the property’s beautiful pools.

Tuesday morning Mike spotted a Broad-billed Motmot on our way to the Amagusa Reserve. Luckily, the banana and hummingbird feeders have covered viewing areas as it rained all morning. Seventeen Tanager species made this an incredible place: Moss-backed, Black-chested Mountain, Golden-crowned and Glistening-green Tanager are some of the highlights.

 

Although most people do not get excited about doves, we really appreciated the White-throated Quail-Dove that looks like it is wearing a helmet. The feeders produced another eight hummingbird species including this Velvet-purple Coronet. There are too many birds to mention but some of the best are: Golden-collared Honeycreeper, Becards, Tyrannulets, Treehunters, and an Orange-breasted Fruiteater. We stopped near the entrance to the Mashpi Lodge and saw the Lyre-tailed Nightjar.

The rest of the day was spent birding the Mashpi area. All of the sudden we came to a section of the Pacto-Pachijal Road with rushing water and partially washed away by a waterfall. Meanwhile, our leader Dušan picked out places to stop in hopes of finding a ‘bird party’ (mixed-flock of birds). Some of the best birds on this part of the tour were: Pacific Flatbill and Hook-billed Kite. While Dušan digiscoped a Gray-and-gold Tanager in the distance, a second bird flew into the frame. The final tally for the day was 115 species with the final bird of the day a Wattled Guan back at Septimo.

 

After four days of birding in Ecuador I’ve added 186  new birds to put me at 971 life birds. Hitting 1,000 looks more promising with each new day.

 

Trip Birds:  169  Life Birds: 89

Next up: Ecuador, Final Chapter