Panama and the ABC’s – December 2023

This six-day cruise originated in Panama and made four stops with three islands. When visiting any of the Caribbean islands, finding a cruise departing as close as possible to the final destination makes sense. Of course, there is always an opportunity for seabirds between stops. We were excited to observe Brown and Masked Boobies in the waters off of Columbia. The downside to cruise birding is that you only spend one day in each location, so proper planning for your shoreside time is essential.

Panama City

We arrived in Panama City the night before the cruise, allowing for a morning of birdwatching time in Panama. Just outside our downtown hotel, we saw a couple of Gray Kingbirds. Metropolitan Natural Park offers numerous trails and we recommend one of the guided tours to fully experience the diverse birdlife. Highlights of our hike included the Lesser Greenlet, Gray-breasted Martin, and Blue-Gray Tanager. Afterward, we went on an informative tour of the Panama Canal to understand the monumental impact of this historic canal. Our drive to the cruise terminal took over an hour and we enjoyed the scenery. Much of Panama remains a mixture of rolling green hills and impenetrable jungle. We even spotted a Roadside Hawk in a tree along the way.

Cartagena, Columbia

Our first stop, Cartagena, Colombia, offered a wonderful blend of history and nature. Centennial Park proved to be an excellent birding hotspot, where we found species like the Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Yellow-headed Caracara, and our lifers, the Brown-throated Parakeet and Black-chested Jay. The park’s Cotton-top tamarin monkeys were a crowd-pleaser and fun to watch. After the park, we drove by the impressive Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, a castle built in 1536. Don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy the local cuisine and explore the vibrant craft market.

Curacao

Our long-awaited visit to the Carribean Netherlands ABC islands began in Curacao. Combining the beach, snorkeling, and birding was the perfect plan. We first took a half-day tour and requested an English-speaking guide, and it turned out we were the only ones on the tour. The first tour stop took us to Salina Sint Michiel where we were thrilled to see 120 American Flamingos and a Great Egret on the salt flats. The next stop was to experience the ancient history and indigenous heritage of the Hato Caves. Afterward, Kokomo Beach’s pristine sands and crystal-clear waters provided the ideal setting for snorkeling, relaxing, and getting a bite to eat. The beach location was a birder’s paradise, with fourteen species spotted, including Eared Dove, Tropical Mockingbird, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Venezuelan Tropical, and Saffron Finch. On the way back we stopped at the mangroves west of the ship dock where we added thirteen species including the Magnificient Frigatebird, Gray Kingbird, and Yellow Oriole.

Bon Aire

Bon Aire has a lot of potential birds prompting us to enlist the expertise of Elsmarie Beukenboom, a passionate birder and environmental advocate. Our exploration began in the neighborhoods and resorts of North Salina. We added Scaly-naped Pigeons, White-tipped Doves, Carib Grackles, and Banaquit to our bird list. The next stop was in Kralendijk which had beautiful grounds and cute cottages for rent. We found our target lifer, the Pearly-eyed thrasher! We also saw Blue-tailed Emerald and Black-faced Grassquit. Despite challenging rain in Rincon, we saw several American Flamingos on the salt flats. Our birding adventure concluded at the Kralendijk Water Treatment Plant where we discovered fifteen species, including another lifer, Nothern-scrub Flycatcher.

Aruba

Aruba is known for its beautiful beaches and snorkeling. Wanting to get away from the crowded beaches north of the cruise port we decided on Mangel Halto to the south. This beach has been known for great snorkeling and although there is some reef area close in, much of the shallow coral has been bleached. Global warming has become a major disaster for the oceans across the planet. For lunch, we visited the highly recommended Tia Rosa Shack, known for the Patacon sandwich which replaces bread with plantains. Yummy! As far as birding, we saw a Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, a Brown-throated Parakeet, a Venezuelan Tropical, and several Bannaquits in the many flowering bushes.

On the way back to the cruise port we were walking to the bus stop and a very nice local woman stopped and graciously gave us a ride to the ship.

Closing

Cruising offers the opportunity to explore diverse destinations while enjoying the comfort of a floating hotel. With each port offering new landscapes and wildlife encounters, it’s a fantastic way to expand your bird life list and create lasting memories.

Panama Birds: 16 Life Birds: 1

Columbia Birds: 24 Life Birds: 2

Curacao Birds: 24 Life Birds: 2

Bon Aire Birds: 33 Life Birds: 4

Aruba Birds: 16 Life Birds: 1

Trip Birds: 62 Life Birds: 10

Next Up: 2023 Best Bird of Each Month